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| Conscript ![]() Join Date: May 2008
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| I am having some serious trouble gluing 4 new ravaners and i cannot figure out how to glue them on. Holding the piece to the socket for about ten minutes did not work. I tried what a person on another forums said and used baking powder with my cynosometing and other glue. I just cant figure out how to do these metal to metal bonds!!! arrrghhH!!!! Also after i finish painting my models should i go over it with a clear finish to make sure the paint stays on or should it be fine? And i am going for some sand tyranids, any one have any experience with using real sand on terrain and models? is it a good idea to glue real sand on a model? |
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| God-Emperor ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Seattle, Washington
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Blog Entries: 3 | Welcome to the site =) Glue on one side, Saliva on other. Seriously. For some reason, Saliva is like a catlyst and will speed up the bond. However it is slightly week. Otherwise - pinning is the next way to go my friend.
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| | #3 (permalink) | |
| Master of Evil ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: NJ
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2) yes clear coating any piece you do is a good idea. It will protect the finish greatly. Testors dull coat is what I use. Little pricey though. There are other brands like armory and GW for example. 3) When you say glue on the model. Do you mean the base of the model or on the figure itself. If you mean the base, yes I have and yes I use good old Elmers glue. Hope I was of some help.
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3. I mean on the model itself like literally on the guant or fexs back | |
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| Master of Evil ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: NJ
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| yes a mini drill. You can go to your local GW store or distributor and buy one for a couple of dollars. If you dont have anything around here is a web site you can order from. The Gale Force Nine Store or you can get it straight from GW here Games Workshop US Online Store If you have a few dollars to burn, you can go with my favorite. A dremil kit! As for putting sand on a guant, no I have never done it. What effect are you looking for?
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| Beef Potato Wheelman ![]() ![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
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Blog Entries: 4 | I would also use a knife and a file to rough up the parts that are touching, super glue likes to bond to gritty areas much better.
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| The effect im looking for is that they use the sand to blend in with my landscape which is going to be Arabian desertlike. which means very very little greenery and beach like sand. Not American desert where its dry dirt with quite a bit of dry greenery. |
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| Corporal ![]() | Well, the obvious answer for the gluing situation is pinning. Use small drill to drill 2 holes in each part and use a piece of copper rod to hold them up and keep it there while it glues and strengthens it ^_^ As for the sand, im not to sure. Alot of people, (that i know anyways) would put sand on the model before it is even primed/sprayed. doing it this way will ensure the sand stays on better and this also gives you the chance to paint the sand up which is often a better idea than using it straight from the tub/bag. This also ensures you dont get unnecessary sand on your painted model :P An idea maybe is just have sand on top of its head, or in its joints? maybe to make it look like it has just came out of the desert or from under the desert and the sand is still working its way out :P
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| Pancake Madman ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wichita Kansas, or as we like to call it the dub k
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Blog Entries: 7 | try putting a bit of paint where you want the glue to go. then add just a bit of glue. the glue mixed with the paint bonds everything together, that worked for me, the other thing would be pinning like how everyone else said.
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| Alright i have just gotten some thick jet super heavy awesome strength "fast" drying ultra glue... and it still does not work...*sob*. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG! alright now its time to try pinning...... Can someone give me a series of steps of how to pin? do i drill all the way though both pieces? maybe i should just ask Dan to come over and help me out... |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Corporal ![]() | no not all the way through. just a good depth into each, cut a piece of copper rod and it it in one hole, put glue around it, then slide on the other piece, the copper rod shud go right into it and the pieces should fit together. the rod is simply to strengthen it. it will take considerable time for it to dry properly, i usually leave all my metal gluing or pinning to dry over night. the important thing about pinning is to drill in the right area, you have to make sure a piece of rod fits and connects both so it has to be one straight li ne just so the metal still fits in the place you want it too ![]() i was always nervous about trying it but once i tried pinning i have got really good at it and find it easy and very effective. if all else fails take it to your local GW and ask staff to show you ![]() good luck man,
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| | #12 (permalink) | |
| Discord Chaos and death!! ![]() ![]() ![]() | Have you tried adding a bit of greenstuff then useing superglue? it always worked for my Hive Tyrant and well My Resin stuff just make sure to file away any excess GS after the model has dried
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| Termi to teh rescue aight here what you do put elmers on one side of the socket then put super glue on the other hold them together for 20 sec and looky there its fixed :P
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| Term will you marry me? IT WORKS LIKE GOLD! thanks soooo much you have solved many of my problems. The elmers glue dries fast enuf to bond but the super duper glue strengthens it when it dries. thanks peoples. |
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Commissar of Spelling ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Lakeland, Florida, USA
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| In all my years as a modeler, long before 40K, I've never heard of using Elmer's as an accelerator. I tried it myself, last night, and what do you know? It works. I will have to add a disclaimer, that the bond is weaker than using a thick ACC adhesive. As the ACC manufacturer's sites will tell you, the thinner the glue, the faster it dries, and the weaker the bond. Accelerators and catalysts are basically thinners. Personally, I try to pin as much as I can, and I like 2-part 5 minute liquid epoxy, and a clamp to hold the pieces together. As for the sand question, I use a very fine grade of sand sold at arts & crafts stores for making sand-in-a-bottle sculptures. It comes in various colors, and is a consistent grain size. I use it frequently for basing my desert-themed IG. I prime the base, then brush the base with a dilute solution of white glue and a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid. Then I sprinkle the base with the fine sand. As the glue solution begins to set, I use a more diluted solution of about 75% white glue, 25% water, and a few drops of dishwashing liquid (it helps to break the surface tension of the sand and let the mixture seep through to the base), in a spray bottle, to lightly mist the top of the sand. The mist will glue the top of the sand layer, and keep it in place. Then I paint my color on top. Don't forget to clean your spray bottle after this, because dried glue will mean you have to buy another sprayer. (Been there, done that.) You can try this method on your Nids, and if you don't like it, throw them in a bucket of Simple Green Cleaner, and in a day or so, the glue will break down and brush right off.
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Last edited by Rhaalidor; 05-18-2008 at 11:17 AM. | |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| High Lord of Terra ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | If you are thinking of using sand or anything else "natural" I suggest you read this thread. It should help emensly! Natural Materials Servo |
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