Mud/Dirt/Weathering

[Baron von Lexus]

Ok everyone after a mildly long delay here it is at last, my guide for realistic (or at least I think so) weathering.

Now I know some people cringe when they here the word "drybrush" but for me that truly is the best technique for what I'm about to show you. My weathering technique can be applied to any colors but for these examples I'm sticking to Bestail Brown and Graveyard Earth for a wet/muddy and dry/dusty look respectively.

The way I organize weathering is in 2 catergories that are not mutually exclusive.
1) Light, Medium or Heavy for the density of the dirtyness
and
2) Dusty, Dry, Wet, and Splattered for the type of dirtyness that is going on.

Techniques used:
Stippling and Drybrushing
Stippling is using a frayed brush by dabbing to get splotches of color to get a splattered look while Drybrushing is applying a light dry layer of paint to simulate dirt and dust.

The objective of weathering in my opinion is to be as realistic as possible in telling a story about what your model has been through. Dynamic weathering can really add alot of character to line infantry and is pretty quick and easy to do.

While most weathering occurs on the legs and boots dont forget that unless you're a Space Marine, chances are you've fallen down, taken cover, crawled, dove, rolled, layed down, jumped in a puddle, etc. on any battlefield of the 41st millenium. So think about what you're soldier has probably been through and dont be afraid to put some mud on his helmet if you say its fallen off or his elbows b/c he just crawled through fire etc. Weathering can be a great way to effectively give even stoic models the sense of being alive.

Step 1:
Paint the models and find a drybrush. Light, Dry, and Dusty I use a citidel small drybrush with either color depending on what I'm doing. For a medium, heavy, wet or splattered look I use a really frayed and beat up old drybrush.

Ex:

Step 2:
Put on your first color, I usually use my 'wetter' color, in this case Bestial Brown to define where I think dirty ares will be.

Ex:


Step 3:
Apply the second color. I usually do the dryer color after the wetter color for some reason and in this case is Graveyard Earth. Go over the areas you put your first color on using a lighter drybrush to sort of "dust" the muddy areas.

Ex:


These are the 3 basic steps for weathering but can acheive different effects by mixing and matching the 2 categories I've identified earlier.

*Notice in all of these examples how the weathering is not just confined to the usuall areas. I've done the Elbows, knees and up the front of the coat.*

Here are some Examples of each:
Stippling/Splattering:



Medium Drybrush:



Heavy Drybrush:


Medium/Heavy w/ Splatter:




Any questions or comments just ask, hope this is helpful to all,
BvL

[Rellik]

great tut!

[hairyyahoo]

nice one BvL. i personally use the drybrushing method to get the weathering effect and it's one of the few things i do drybrush never thought of stippling it on

+rep

[Baron von Lexus]

Stippling is perfect for mud splatter though finding the right brush is the hardest part.

[hairyyahoo]

you ever tried paint flicking for this effect?

[Baron von Lexus]

Nope, seems to me it might be a bit hard to controll for line infantry.

[hairyyahoo]

yeah, might be a bit indiscriminate (oooh...big word)

[Prince of the Night]

Originally Posted by Baron von Lexus

Stippling is perfect for mud splatter though finding the right brush is the hardest part.

great tut BvL. Very true on finding the right brush. Finding a mini stencil brush is not the easiest. I end up cutting a brush for this effect.

I once tried the flicking technique with a child size toothbrush and found paint going every which direction except for where I wanted it to.

[Baron von Lexus]

Thats what I figured would happen.

[Dragoon King]

Golden, BvL. I really like your method, and the results are amazing. Rep for you, my friend!

[Brother Warchild]

Great TUT BVL,will have to give it a try.