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| Conversion and Modeling Base Learn how to customize, pose, and convert your favorite models! |
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| Arch-Magos ![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
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| This is my first how-to, so I hope it's helpful. To start with, I've taken my pre-painted Predator tank. After some creative criticism, I realized it looked "brand new" without battle damage or dirt/mud. I decided to go all-out on this piece by creating realistic bullet holes. What you need (very simple): Pin vice (aka modeling/hobby drill) Model(s) Metallic paint Take your model and decide where you want the battle damage. Keep in mind, it'll look like machinegun fire, so it will be sparse, misaligned, and sporadic. Next, line the drillbit up with the model to imply the direction the bullets struck from. This is very important, as it'd look awkward if the bullets seemed to have come straight down onto the vehicle, or from below it. Now, drill very lightly into the plastic. Make sure you drill into the model and not through it! If the drillbit happens to penetrate the other end, it's not a big deal, but try to avoid it. After you've made up some bullet holes, you'll want to paint them with some metallic (or black/rust) color to show it's been damaged [I used boltgun metal]. Depending on where the vehicle was struck from, you may want to create "splash" damage or chipped paint around the holes, or possibly ricochet marks from the bullets that bounced off. Repeat as necessary. Enjoy your $40 hunk of Swiss-cheesed plastic! *EDIT* I would like to note that the distance between bullet holes symbolizes the distance of the shooter, and you can use larger sized drillbits to indicate different types of ammo hits [my goal was to make autogun and small-arms fire]. Here's some photo examples of this tutorial: ![]() Setup ![]() Step 1: Drill holes ![]() Step 2: Paint holes
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Cirative; 12-03-2007 at 12:30 PM. |
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| On The Warpath! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | good stuff cir. if you wanted large holes you could widen these ones by gently twisting the tip of a hobby knife in them. you could also use the knife to score out a kinda starburst pattern to show the explosive effect of, say, bolter rounds. +rep
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| Corporal ![]() Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: south of heaven, north of hell
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| the shooter mustve been REALLY close for a tight grouping like that.... Would suspect fellow space marines if the holes were bigger *aka bolter rounds* mustve been some BRAVE IG!!!
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| Arch-Magos ![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
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| The Thing That Should Not BE ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Good stuff dude + rep! I do however, agree with Hairy and think you should score the edges of the holes just a bit. As they are, they look a lil to " perfect ". But over all, great job! ![]()
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| Lieutenant ![]() Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Ireland
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Blog Entries: 4 | reversed over? heh, why do I see the rhino stopping just short of him and then the ramp dropping on his head? A good idea for bolter craters could be to use a slightly larger drill bit, but don't go all the way through. Then do as hairy says. For the painting, black, highlight boltgun metal, highlight the extremes chainmail.
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| The Munkey Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Very nice on this one guy!!! ![]()
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| Resident Greyhunter ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wherever the wolves go
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Lol that actually made laugh I could just imagine some guy being run over by a rhino and it just stops and drops the ramp on him. Also really good guide thanks.
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| Trooper ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
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| For plasma, Melta gun damage I have fount that nail varnish remover disolves the plastic very well but please be carefull and use ventilated. I found this out by my charming wife tipping over a pot of the stuff onto a plastic figure. Ah well it was only half painted. |
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| Corporal ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Slyvania
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| um...what if i just use my .22 gage? or pellet rifle? or shot gun for intense battle damage! ![]()
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| On The Warpath! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | that's a very literal take on the term "battle damage" elzanith i'm thinking that the mini in question would come out rather more damaged than you'd have hoped ![]()
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| Corporal ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Slyvania
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| Not really air rifles are pretty crappy, just use em on a land raider or other tank type thing, should have great results (just don't test the shotgun people.....trust me on that)
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| Primer ![]() | Yeah, it seems that a shotgun usage on a plastic model would result in a shattered model beyond any hope of repair But nice tutorial! Might try that out when I decide to work on my chimera.
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