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| The Munkey Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | This is a Tut for some rock bases. This tut uses some simple but effective techniques for making a "wintery/mountain' Base. Very effective for Space Wolves........ Anyway start the Post already!!!! This is to be used as an add on the the great base post by Rellik here: Rellik's base post 'Ere we go!!! start off you will need to gather your materials. You will need: Basic- plastic model base- of course PVA/Elmers glue- to glue sand base sand- standard GW sand or playsand super glue- for the "rocks" Paint- I use Vallejo or applebarrel but you can use whatever kind of paint you wanna Rocky Base materials- molds- The black ones are Woodland senics, Green is a Hurst Arts Castle mold, and Blues are my own handmade molds for bricks and tiles ![]() Casting material- I use Excalibur from Clint sales mostly, and sometimes use hydrocal or plaster of paris ![]() ![]() OK Step one: Make a cast of your rocks. Follow directions on the box and wait until they are completely dry before using them. I use an old jerky dehydrator to make sure they are dry and speed things up. It is OK if they break up some while removing them from the molds, just save them and use them on smaller bases. This is what you will have: ![]() Step 2: Arrange the rocks however you want on the base BUT ensure you still leave some flat space for the sand and the model will fit on the base. It is very dramatic to have a model with one leg up in a victory pose on the rocks. Once you find a spot you like Super-glue it in place. Then put PVA glue on the flats and sand base as normal. Step 3 Paint and flock the flats as you would normal ( I like the browns like in Relliks tut), but paint the rocks in...well rock like colors! I use greys and blacks but there are many recipies for rock color out there. This is what you'll get as modeled by my generic dread sized size model Bob: ![]() Step 4 Enjoy your work!! You worked real hard on this ( ) so tell your buddies that want bases like it for their army that it will be a HUGE task and much effort goes into it but your willing to do it for him for a small trade. Your army can look like this guy I painted and Space wolves look AB-SO-effin'-LUTE-LY AWESOME with some snow and these bases. But that is another Tut for the snow base!!!![]() ![]()
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| | #2 (permalink) | |
| Lodge Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hey monkey where do you get the x-caliber from store,web?.And nice raptor you have there,I dig the p-job.
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Sergeant ![]() Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: 2Fort.........Texas
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Blog Entries: 1 | wow awesome work man!
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| The Munkey Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Here you go.... right from the Hurst arts site and thanks for the on the raptor:Hurst arts excalibur page Excalibur is 18,000 psi and dry so hard it's almost like a ceramic material. Excalibur is made by a company called Gerrico. You can purchase it from Clint Sales at Clint Sales and Mfg.. (note no online cart but all info on how to order there) Excalibur cost $39.50 for a 50 pound box, and the shipping can cost from $9.00 to $24.00 depending on where you live.
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| | #5 (permalink) | |
| Lodge Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Thanks Brother,will have to check that out.
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| First Chaplain ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Louisville, KY
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Blog Entries: 5 | Thanks for this! Giving me MORE ideas!
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Master Procrastinator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | this is very cool indeed. i wonder if there's a way to make your own moulds out of clay of something like that? there's bound to be a cheap effective method somewhere ![]()
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| First Chaplain ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Louisville, KY
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Blog Entries: 5 | Clay is not what I suggest. Silicone, iirc, is what you want. That, or plaster.
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| | #10 (permalink) | |
| Master Procrastinator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | hmmm...that'd be a sight more expensive wouldn't it? being a stingy git i'm looking for dirt cheap! ![]()
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Blog Entries: 5 | Clay won't hold up nearly as well as either, nor come off w/ half the detail. So, you'd end up spending more overall w/ it.
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| | #12 (permalink) | |
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Blog Entries: 1 | hmmm...guess you're right. i'm sure i've seen something in my travels where a guy made a bunch of moulds very simply and cheaply...i'l try to track it down.
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| First Chaplain ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Louisville, KY
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Blog Entries: 5 | The materials to make molds aren't THAT bad... Just ask Steve, i'm sure he knows good vendors.
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| The Munkey Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hairy, when I get in from work I'll update and post some stuff for you. I got some stuff you'll like for cheapies.....
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| The Munkey Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | OK for the cheapies.....The originals are at the woodland scenics site here and go to "terrain" then to "Rock molds". They are about $8 USD each. they are very durable and reusable. OR just send the money for materials or send the materials and I'll make them for you useing my molds. Now if you find that "one" rock you just wanna have on every base here is how to do it cheap(ish). Castin craft mold builder liquid latex Buy Castin' Craft mold builder ($15 USD for 16 OZ) Follow directions for 3-4 layers Lay guaze OR webby type cloth material for stability apply 3-4 more layers of mold liquid now you will have a mold for the rock to use over and over. This process TAKES FOREVER THOUGH!!! and for the price of WS molds its worth it to me. ![]()
__________________ ![]() MySpace?? My Trade Refs Bartertown Refs My ebay feedback Last edited by munkey joe paints; 01-16-2008 at 03:12 PM. Reason: forgot pic |
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Blog Entries: 5 | Would the above process work for moulding bits?
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Conscript ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
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| Not to jack this thread .... some info on moulding .... you can make a mould from clay but it wont be of any use in his situation ( it is used usually to cast a metal and to get it out you have to break the mould ) to save money on silicon you can do a thin mould then put another cheaper material behind it ( like wood ) but it will lose the flexibility which is what i like about silicon moulds an alternative to silicon is latex - it should be fine for casting plaster in but it is alot weaker than silicon however much cheaper and more widely available Great toot munkey, a little idea, the silicon that you used do you know the maximum heat it can be in before breaking - only if im in a hurry or want to break up rocks after i put sculpey / fimo polymer clay into them, and either remove them from the mould before cooking ( so i can do a batch from a single mould ) or if i know that the silicon will with stand the heat, put the mould with clay in into the oven for 15 minutes ( note, the clay needs to go into the oven for 15 minutes to go hard ) and once cool is ready to be used thanks, L |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| The Munkey Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | LT L, I'll get back with you on the temps and such for the silicone. I'll have to look it up. Erus, sadly NO latex is garbage for bits but I'll get back with you with some more info I got on that!!
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| Pancake Madman ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wichita Kansas, or as we like to call it the dub k
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Blog Entries: 7 | awesome tut!
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