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| | #31 (permalink) |
| Lieutenant ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Ireland
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Blog Entries: 4 | Same problem, superglue just makes it easier to fix.
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| | #32 (permalink) |
| Master Procrastinator ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | try using a trimmed down piece of sprue. on most frames there are these little cylindrical bits that can be trimmed of and used as spacers, and they can most certainly be stuck with plastic glue ![]() |
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| | #33 (permalink) |
| Lieutenant ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Ireland
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Blog Entries: 4 | I did. Like I said, same problem, you just need to be gentle with it is all. I will say that plasticard is easier to keep a standard space with.
__________________ ![]() 'Do it?' Dan, I'm not a Republic serial villain. Do you seriously think I'd explain my master-stroke if there remained the slightest chance of you affecting its outcome? I did it thirty-five minutes ago. For sale: One soul. Mint Condition, never been used. |
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| | #34 (permalink) |
| Lodge Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Ihave only done one so far but the pegs from the sprue work just fine so far, i always hit both sides with s file first when putting plastic together it helps the glue bond with the plastic stronger and holds alot better.
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| | #35 (permalink) | |
| Master Procrastinator ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | Quote:
ides, if you having trouble with breakages try mixing a slightly yellower batch of GS. the more yellow you use the easier the putty becomes to manipulate, meaning you won't need to use as much pressure when you push it around. | |
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| | #36 (permalink) |
| Sergeant ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Dark side Pennsylvania
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| If you add more yellow to the mix, will there be a longer hardening time for it to set. I only ask because although I have no intention to do true scale, I do have some other GS projects pending.
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| | #37 (permalink) |
| Master Procrastinator ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | yeah it'll take longer to cure but will have a longer working life and will be easier to manipulate, although it'll also be much stickier so more lube will be needed it also won't be as durable when it's dry but as long as you're not doing anything too outlandish it shouldn't be a problem. |
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| | #38 (permalink) |
| Trooper ![]() | I have a few TS marines I am using for Vet Sargents and marine Tac Sargents. I did a few this way (as our Hairyyahoo instructed) and they came out fine. (my impatience ruined the GS though) but they hold fine enough. I also tried pinning each leg, and glueing the pins in, then using the plasticard as a sort of "stopper" for when I pushed the two leg pieces backtogether. Pushed them until they sandwiched the plasticard firmly on the outside of the leg. (so I got the space correct). then cut the remaining card off, and filled the inside of the leg with GS. this took waaay longer, but it worked out just the same. |
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| | #39 (permalink) |
| Pancake Madman ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wichita Kansas, or as we like to call it the dub k
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Blog Entries: 7 | Whats a good way to smooth out the GS once you applied it over each section of leg?
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| | #40 (permalink) |
| Lieutenant ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Ireland
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Blog Entries: 4 | Either the flat of a modelling knife or a clay shaper. With the modelling knife, keep the blade and GS wet, and keep going over the surface of the GS until it is at the required smoothness, trimming off excess GS as needed. The clay shaper(Paint brush with a rubber thingie instead of bristles) is a similar process, though it tends to push the GS ahead of it sometimes.
__________________ ![]() 'Do it?' Dan, I'm not a Republic serial villain. Do you seriously think I'd explain my master-stroke if there remained the slightest chance of you affecting its outcome? I did it thirty-five minutes ago. For sale: One soul. Mint Condition, never been used. |
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| | #41 (permalink) |
| Pancake Madman ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wichita Kansas, or as we like to call it the dub k
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Blog Entries: 7 | Cool, im finally trying my hand at doing this. Clay shaper huh i need to look into getting that.
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| | #42 (permalink) |
| Master Procrastinator ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | the clay shaper is the ideal option here as it gives the smoothest finish, although the modelling knife or sculpting tool will do. you could also sand or file it down when it's fully cured of an ultra smooth finish. |
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| | #43 (permalink) |
| Your Friendly Neighborhood Heretic ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Louisville, KY (Back home in the bluegrass)
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Blog Entries: 5 | Hairy... Seeing your Autarch lead me to this... I demand a sculpting tutorial on Eldar.. Now, what does one do in the case of marking and scoring armor details into gs (the little gubbinzy details on the thigh, etc...).. Craft knife, i'm assuming?
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| | #44 (permalink) |
| Master Procrastinator ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: As a figment of my own deranged imagination, i don't actually exist anywhere. Or London, UK.
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Blog Entries: 1 | a craft knife is perfect for the job :d it certainly needs to be sharper than a standard sculpting tool. the only thing i've sculpted for eldar so far is a pair of legs, and they were built up from a wire armature, so a tut on that might be a bit...complex. i do have another such project planned for the future that i can get pics of, but that model will be a bit special, and therefor very involved, so i'll wait til i get the stuff i've already got painted. |
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| | #45 (permalink) |
| Your Friendly Neighborhood Heretic ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Louisville, KY (Back home in the bluegrass)
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Blog Entries: 5 | Well, even a tutorial on how to sculpt legs would be immensely useful. Because it will cover the basic flow and shape of an Eldar body, the armor plates, games, etc.. I'll wait.. For now...
__________________ ![]() "Men are haunted by the vastness of eternity. And so we ask ourselves: will our actions echo across the centuries? Will strangers hear our names long after we are gone, and wonder who we were, how bravely we fought, how fiercely we loved?" - Odysseus (Troy - 2004) ![]() Black Saints Adeptus Astartes Chapter |
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| | #46 (permalink) |
| Corporal ![]() | I am curious about two things. why squar cuts of polystyrine? why would you not just use a hole punch sence you are doing them on the leg, which is wound? annother question. sence space marines where armor why not do these cuts at the breaks in the armor and not fill them in at all? in other words just leave the gap where the extentions went and say that is the actual leg not covered by the armor. |
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