Destroyed Vehicles - 40K Terra

Templar Mikeel · 07-23-2007

Very soon I'm planning on buying a bunch of CoD building and some cheap vehicles from BWB to start work on my CoD table. But I need advice on destroyed vehicles. For example, if I wanted it sticking halfway out of the ground, would it be better to assemble it then saw,cut half of it off? Or should I take a different approach, one that has not made itself known to me? I just need several destroyed vehicles as part of the terrain.

Some beardy advice please!
Thanks.

Perturabo · 07-24-2007

If youre going for blown up there is no need to cut them in half-generaly you either find they have a big hole in them and they are burnt out or they are in lots of little bits-depends what hit them!

If youre going for the hole in the side/front/top try not to actual cut a hole with flat edges but bend the plastic in to create a hole as if the metal has been deformed by a large blast (perhaps even bend it out on the other side to show where the blast ripped through).

Maybe model a tank with its tracks thrown out in front/behind with a small blast mark on the guide wheels (mine/sticky bomb damage) and then model blown hatches etc onto it!

As for lots of little bits-plenty of plasticard cut into jagged and bent panels (painted in the correct colours then with loads of scorcting/burn marks) with plenty of recognisable vehicle bits scattered through the wreckage

Templar Mikeel · 07-24-2007

That couldn't have been more helpful.

Perturabo · 07-24-2007

Cant wait to see the results!

Dan296 · 07-24-2007

another idea is to have it mostly intact, but with the tracks blown off and the crewmen on top/leaning out of the top hatch dead.

Four20edLogan · 07-24-2007

Don't forget the few dead body's to place in random parts of the map

Templar Mikeel · 07-24-2007

Ah yes, the dead bodies. I'm already thinking of how to use them with the vehicle. For example: The dead warriors who didn't escape the flaming transport, bodies fire blackend, flesh burnt from their limbs. For those warriors who escaped the inferno, the attackers lurked outside. Bullet holes, blood splashed on the vehicles hull.

Stubber · 07-24-2007

Here are links to help with the your urban planning.
Can't have a city without craters and rubble...
Now if I could only find those tips on vehicles...

http://uk.games-workshop.com/spacemarines/crater/1/
http://uk.games-workshop.com/cityfight/rubble/1/

In one of the White dwarfs there's an article on modelling damage to vehicles but I can't seem to fine that issue right now.

Templar Mikeel · 07-24-2007

Thanks stubber. The crater article on the US site makes it a lot more complicated.

Lord Erak Grimnar · 07-27-2007

Like Perturbo said before depends what type of damaged.

Trying bullet holes in the sides with a pin vice. Also try and make scorch marks/blown apart pieces are the fuel tanks (if you it to of blown up).

As for when building it try and not have the tracks on the bottom but a little bit on the top as if it was slipping off or some on the bottom and them then lying down so it looks like the tank has been destroyed. If you do not know what I mean watch saving private ryan when there in the final town defending aganst the germans and they start using the stick bombs. Shows that the tank was moving when the tracks got blown up and they slipped of as the tank kept trying to move.

Also if you want it the tank was immobilished and then the crew inside were killed. Try having the hatches a bit bent (keep bending plastic will eventually turn white) make it looked warp and for the inside make it look as if grenades went off. As if the tank was immobilished an then was assaulted and grenades were thrown down the hatches.

If you are making it to be blown apart by lascannon and such type weapon make a jagged whole and to make it looked like it was melted try maybs some pva glue around the edges. Will look better if on the top its dripping down. Shows it being melted.

If you are making it blown apart by missle launchers and such. Make it so there a few blow marks like a circular black hole with black streaks coming out. For glancing hits. Then a few with instead of the painted black whole an actual whole.

Remember one thing show the dammage inside nothing looks dogier if a lascannon blew apart the side of the tank and it does not damage to the opposite wall. Or if missles were launched in things were knocked around. Or if grenades were thronw in make inside look like hell the electronics bloew apart maybe put little wires you can get cutting of the plastic and making the metal frayed.

Hope all that helped.

Templar Mikeel · 07-27-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lord Erak Grimnar

As for when building it try and not have the tracks on the bottom but a little bit on the top as if it was slipping off or some on the bottom and them then lying down so it looks like the tank has been destroyed. If you do not know what I mean watch saving private ryan when there in the final town defending aganst the germans and they start using the stick bombs. Shows that the tank was moving when the tracks got blown up and they slipped of as the tank kept trying to move.
.

While I read that, Saving Private Ryan was exaclty what was playing through my mind.

What about vehicles destroyed by a melta? Would actually melting part of the vehicle give a really good effect, or should I stick with Grimnars glue idea?

wolfpack · 07-27-2007

I was just going to cover that...in this instance your best friend is a small candle, a heat gun , and or a soldering iron...remember heat is your friend and yer dealing with plastic so warping it or even burning it through then heating the edges and bending them inwards makes for an awesome effect...(I have a few 32nd scale WWII dioramas with this kind of damage...)

WARNING>>> go slow and experiment on odd bits first...don't wanna ruin the final cut so to speak...as for wires for the inside...heat up a bit of sprue and start stretching...also makes for wonderful antennea cables and other thin stringy items...and remember to watch you don't burn up what yer workin on...a little heat goes a long way and the plastic will stay warm for a few seconds...

Lord Erak Grimnar · 07-28-2007

Yer the melting would be good for melta and las effects. I suggested pva glue no idea if it works. But it makes a clear hardish and melty plastic type look. Test it first as I am not sure.

Also like wolfpac said a hot glue gun would work I am trying to think though what would be fastest drying as you want it... actually nevermind if it was meant to be left for a while maybe the melted bits would of fallen down. I would seriously not use putty type things as it is icredibly hard to get a true melted look. So try glue and if you are crazy actually melt it (DO NOT SUGGEST) but only if you have the proper stuff (sure there is some machinary or something to do it safetly). But yes glue either heated thinking about it would make it a good look or PVA glue or other glue. Then paint it same colours as tank.

But yer definatly for the tracks attach it to the bottom and then lying down straight if you really want that saving private ryan style.

Any other questions ask.

Lord Erak Grimnar · 07-28-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfpack

I was just going to cover that...in this instance your best friend is a small candle, a heat gun , and or a soldering iron...remember heat is your friend and yer dealing with plastic so warping it or even burning it through then heating the edges and bending them inwards makes for an awesome effect...(I have a few 32nd scale WWII dioramas with this kind of damage...)

WARNING>>> go slow and experiment on odd bits first...don't wanna ruin the final cut so to speak...as for wires for the inside...heat up a bit of sprue and start stretching...also makes for wonderful antennea cables and other thin stringy items...and remember to watch you don't burn up what yer workin on...a little heat goes a long way and the plastic will stay warm for a few seconds...

Are you sure about the wire I really think there is nothing better than the real thing. Just some electical wire and take the plastic of the end and spread out the actual wire itself. Trust me its safe as long as you dont touch the metal when its in an electical socket or such. (trust me ive used them before at a school camp used a radio antena wire as a makeshift tv cable)

wolfpack · 07-28-2007

Yes Erak...I am sure...after 30 years of modeling everything from lead soldiers to plastic ships and planes in every conceivable scale...I am sure...

and not a hot glue gun..a HEAT GUN...it is a small hair dryer that blows very hot air (250 degrees +F)...I have one that runs on butane and the air jet is about 5mm across makes for an excellant modeling tool...you can usually pic them up at say an electronics store...

As for the melting parts...yer not burning it or setting it ablaze...you just want to heat the plastic to make it maleable enough to bend and warp and give it that melted look...after say 2 or 3 seconds...it's as solid as the rest of the model...NO DRYING TIME NEEDED...

here's a good experiment for say...a close range melta blast....drill a small hole (start with 1/8th inch about 3mm) where you want the damage...then score a few lines starting at the hole and working out...(like a star burst)...then apply heat to the hole...close and hot till the plastic softens...then pull it out away down the lines...the plastic should split along the lines and blow in like it took a melta blast...then apply a small bit of heat to the ends to curl them up and take the jagged appearence away...Instant blast pattern with melted edges...and it takes all of about 3 minutes to make...

A multistrand wire would work well for say a cable bundle(hard to find and work with multistrand wire in less than 2 mil diameter)...but for single wires (and to keep it close to scale) plastic stretching works better...as you can vary thickness and length without the threat of metal splinters and the like...it's also much easier to work with in small spaces...and you don't have to worry about using special adhesives...regular modeling cement works just fine...no worries about stickin yer fingers together with cyanoacrylate (super glue or Zap) I have also experimented with using it for things like sails and cloaks...(I'll stick to GS for the cloak thingy, but have had some success with stretching small sheets for smaller scale warships)...

Lord Erak Grimnar · 07-29-2007

NO idea what you just said lol.

But templar Mikeel you are going to need to tell us a bit more in what you want. As what we are telling you is for more recent.

If you want this to of happened a long time ago we are going to start needing a different look at this.

Just a few other things. I have been trying to think about savng private ryan and weather or not the tank tracks would of left the wheels compltly as the tank continued moving or if it would stay on the bottom lined flat out.

Also one more thing which I cannot stress enough is something I like to call follow through damage (which yes is something I just made up) is remember if there is a whole on one side it would not stop there unless it was a weak explosion. It would of gone straight through and atleast scorching the exact other side.

Lord Erak Grimnar
The cazy beer drinkng wolf

Lord Erak Grimnar · 07-29-2007

WHY did I not think of that yes its brilliant. If you can get a soldering iron that would work excellent but remember to work outside as Melting plastic the fumes given of arent to good for you. Also it would work for metal but for that remember to also melt around the side of the holes so it doesnt look cut out.

Also remember bullet holes so a few small holes with a pin vice would suffice for that.

Templar Mikeel · 07-30-2007

After getting so much advice it would shame you not to do a good job!

Templar Mikeel · 07-30-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stubber

Here are links to help with the your urban planning.
Can't have a city without craters and rubble...
Now if I could only find those tips on vehicles...

http://uk.games-workshop.com/spacemarines/crater/1/
http://uk.games-workshop.com/cityfight/rubble/1/

In one of the White dwarfs there's an article on modelling damage to vehicles but I can't seem to fine that issue right now.

I just thought you might like to see this. I got bored yesterday, so I made this.

[/IMG]

For scale purposes

[/IMG]

With an unfineshed Termie

[/IMG]

I don't think you can really see the drybrushing on it.
Ack! double post

Lord Erak Grimnar · 07-30-2007

Nice pics need to focus the camera though.

You still havn't told us exactly what you want could you please tell us so we could help. Also post pics when your done/making it

hairyyahoo · 07-31-2007

heres a couple of views of my russ "'ol vic" that sports an impressive ammount of battle damage. not exactly destroyed but there are plenty of bullet holes in him. this was simply done by twisting a hobby knife in a small hole made with a compass.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/P1010073.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/P1010071.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/P1010075.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/P1010074.jpg

07-31-2007

I take, for lascannon, a thick bladed exacto, heat it up (I have a heat resistant handle, it's called a welding glove!) and poke through the tank then twist in a circle. Repeat to a smaller knife to smooth out edges, and presto! Lascannon hole. You can also just use the edge of any knife that is heated to it and carve out a disc from it, but it looks too clean for my tastes.

Lord Erak Grimnar · 07-31-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lord Commander Erus

I take, for lascannon, a thick bladed exacto, heat it up (I have a heat resistant handle, it's called a welding glove!) and poke through the tank then twist in a circle. Repeat to a smaller knife to smooth out edges, and presto! Lascannon hole. You can also just use the edge of any knife that is heated to it and carve out a disc from it, but it

07-23-2007	#1 (permalink)
Templar Mikeel Major Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,779 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 217 Thanked 156 Times in 97 Posts	Destroyed Vehicles Very soon I'm planning on buying a bunch of CoD building and some cheap vehicles from BWB to start work on my CoD table. But I need advice on destroyed vehicles. For example, if I wanted it sticking halfway out of the ground, would it be better to assemble it then saw,cut half of it off? Or should I take a different approach, one that has not made itself known to me? I just need several destroyed vehicles as part of the terrain. Some beardy advice please! Thanks. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Don't To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. the Killer! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-24-2007	#2 (permalink)
Perturabo Tyrant of Moray Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Eye Of Terror Posts: 1,273 Rep Power: 3 Thanks: 19 Thanked 95 Times in 45 Posts Blog Entries: 4	If youre going for blown up there is no need to cut them in half-generaly you either find they have a big hole in them and they are burnt out or they are in lots of little bits-depends what hit them! If youre going for the hole in the side/front/top try not to actual cut a hole with flat edges but bend the plastic in to create a hole as if the metal has been deformed by a large blast (perhaps even bend it out on the other side to show where the blast ripped through). Maybe model a tank with its tracks thrown out in front/behind with a small blast mark on the guide wheels (mine/sticky bomb damage) and then model blown hatches etc onto it! As for lots of little bits-plenty of plasticard cut into jagged and bent panels (painted in the correct colours then with loads of scorcting/burn marks) with plenty of recognisable vehicle bits scattered through the wreckage __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Experts in Siege Works....we also do Patios and Drives To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-24-2007	#3 (permalink)
Templar Mikeel Major Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,779 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 217 Thanked 156 Times in 97 Posts	That couldn't have been more helpful. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Don't To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. the Killer! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-24-2007	#4 (permalink)
Perturabo Tyrant of Moray Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Eye Of Terror Posts: 1,273 Rep Power: 3 Thanks: 19 Thanked 95 Times in 45 Posts Blog Entries: 4	Cant wait to see the results! __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Experts in Siege Works....we also do Patios and Drives To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-24-2007	#5 (permalink)
Dan296 The Dark Apostle Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,692 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 13 Thanked 59 Times in 33 Posts	another idea is to have it mostly intact, but with the tracks blown off and the crewmen on top/leaning out of the top hatch dead. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I am a leaf on the wind Watch how i soar To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-24-2007	#6 (permalink)
Four20edLogan Sergeant Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Falls Church, VA Posts: 614 Rep Power: 1 Thanks: 32 Thanked 22 Times in 15 Posts	Don't forget the few dead body's to place in random parts of the map __________________ Valhalla - Deliverance Why've you ever forgotten me To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. 40k Chaos: 1250 Points Imperial Guard: 650 Points Space Marines: 650 Points Eldar: 650 Points Daemon Hunters (add on): 250 Points Fantasy Orc & Goblins: 1000 Points Ogres: 700 Points

07-24-2007	#7 (permalink)
Templar Mikeel Major Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,779 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 217 Thanked 156 Times in 97 Posts	Ah yes, the dead bodies. I'm already thinking of how to use them with the vehicle. For example: The dead warriors who didn't escape the flaming transport, bodies fire blackend, flesh burnt from their limbs. For those warriors who escaped the inferno, the attackers lurked outside. Bullet holes, blood splashed on the vehicles hull. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Don't To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. the Killer! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-24-2007	#8 (permalink)
Stubber Confused and Enraged Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: South-east Ireland Posts: 965 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 13 Thanked 14 Times in 13 Posts	Here are links to help with the your urban planning. Can't have a city without craters and rubble... Now if I could only find those tips on vehicles... http://uk.games-workshop.com/spacemarines/crater/1/ http://uk.games-workshop.com/cityfight/rubble/1/ In one of the White dwarfs there's an article on modelling damage to vehicles but I can't seem to fine that issue right now. __________________ The thing that inspires men to kill is Hatred. -Sun Tzu To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Vote On The Battlefield: For any concerned I'll be online much more often once exams end friday 23rd. Last edited by Stubber; 07-24-2007 at 02:53 PM.

07-24-2007	#9 (permalink)
Templar Mikeel Major Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,779 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 217 Thanked 156 Times in 97 Posts	Thanks stubber. The crater article on the US site makes it a lot more complicated. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Don't To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. the Killer! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-27-2007	#10 (permalink)
Lord Erak Grimnar Resident Greyhunter Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wherever the wolves go Posts: 348 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 13 Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Like Perturbo said before depends what type of damaged. Trying bullet holes in the sides with a pin vice. Also try and make scorch marks/blown apart pieces are the fuel tanks (if you it to of blown up). As for when building it try and not have the tracks on the bottom but a little bit on the top as if it was slipping off or some on the bottom and them then lying down so it looks like the tank has been destroyed. If you do not know what I mean watch saving private ryan when there in the final town defending aganst the germans and they start using the stick bombs. Shows that the tank was moving when the tracks got blown up and they slipped of as the tank kept trying to move. Also if you want it the tank was immobilished and then the crew inside were killed. Try having the hatches a bit bent (keep bending plastic will eventually turn white) make it looked warp and for the inside make it look as if grenades went off. As if the tank was immobilished an then was assaulted and grenades were thrown down the hatches. If you are making it to be blown apart by lascannon and such type weapon make a jagged whole and to make it looked like it was melted try maybs some pva glue around the edges. Will look better if on the top its dripping down. Shows it being melted. If you are making it blown apart by missle launchers and such. Make it so there a few blow marks like a circular black hole with black streaks coming out. For glancing hits. Then a few with instead of the painted black whole an actual whole. Remember one thing show the dammage inside nothing looks dogier if a lascannon blew apart the side of the tank and it does not damage to the opposite wall. Or if missles were launched in things were knocked around. Or if grenades were thronw in make inside look like hell the electronics bloew apart maybe put little wires you can get cutting of the plastic and making the metal frayed. Hope all that helped. __________________ I am Lord Erak Grimnar Wolf Lord of the Night Hounds and we shall stand and fight no matter the cost. Each step shall be paid in blood non will be given for free. Here I am and here shall I die. +++ attributed to Leman Russ at the Battle of Rising Fell +++ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-27-2007	#12 (permalink)
wolfpack The Great Wolf Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: BFE Kentucky Posts: 2,241 Rep Power: 3 Thanks: 42 Thanked 61 Times in 51 Posts	I was just going to cover that...in this instance your best friend is a small candle, a heat gun , and or a soldering iron...remember heat is your friend and yer dealing with plastic so warping it or even burning it through then heating the edges and bending them inwards makes for an awesome effect...(I have a few 32nd scale WWII dioramas with this kind of damage...) WARNING>>> go slow and experiment on odd bits first...don't wanna ruin the final cut so to speak...as for wires for the inside...heat up a bit of sprue and start stretching...also makes for wonderful antennea cables and other thin stringy items...and remember to watch you don't burn up what yer workin on...a little heat goes a long way and the plastic will stay warm for a few seconds... __________________ I am Wolfpack, my fangs are long, my hair grey with age...I am The Great Wolf...I fight with bolter and Axe, my armies vast, my word final. A true son of Russ, my honor above all, I hunt the heretic, the xenos, and the witch and slay them where they stand! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. My sons hunt our enemies, slay them where they falter and bring their pelts to Fenris To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-28-2007	#13 (permalink)
Lord Erak Grimnar Resident Greyhunter Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wherever the wolves go Posts: 348 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 13 Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Yer the melting would be good for melta and las effects. I suggested pva glue no idea if it works. But it makes a clear hardish and melty plastic type look. Test it first as I am not sure. Also like wolfpac said a hot glue gun would work I am trying to think though what would be fastest drying as you want it... actually nevermind if it was meant to be left for a while maybe the melted bits would of fallen down. I would seriously not use putty type things as it is icredibly hard to get a true melted look. So try glue and if you are crazy actually melt it (DO NOT SUGGEST) but only if you have the proper stuff (sure there is some machinary or something to do it safetly). But yes glue either heated thinking about it would make it a good look or PVA glue or other glue. Then paint it same colours as tank. But yer definatly for the tracks attach it to the bottom and then lying down straight if you really want that saving private ryan style. Any other questions ask. __________________ I am Lord Erak Grimnar Wolf Lord of the Night Hounds and we shall stand and fight no matter the cost. Each step shall be paid in blood non will be given for free. Here I am and here shall I die. +++ attributed to Leman Russ at the Battle of Rising Fell +++ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-28-2007	#15 (permalink)
wolfpack The Great Wolf Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: BFE Kentucky Posts: 2,241 Rep Power: 3 Thanks: 42 Thanked 61 Times in 51 Posts	Yes Erak...I am sure...after 30 years of modeling everything from lead soldiers to plastic ships and planes in every conceivable scale...I am sure... and not a hot glue gun..a HEAT GUN...it is a small hair dryer that blows very hot air (250 degrees +F)...I have one that runs on butane and the air jet is about 5mm across makes for an excellant modeling tool...you can usually pic them up at say an electronics store... As for the melting parts...yer not burning it or setting it ablaze...you just want to heat the plastic to make it maleable enough to bend and warp and give it that melted look...after say 2 or 3 seconds...it's as solid as the rest of the model...NO DRYING TIME NEEDED... here's a good experiment for say...a close range melta blast....drill a small hole (start with 1/8th inch about 3mm) where you want the damage...then score a few lines starting at the hole and working out...(like a star burst)...then apply heat to the hole...close and hot till the plastic softens...then pull it out away down the lines...the plastic should split along the lines and blow in like it took a melta blast...then apply a small bit of heat to the ends to curl them up and take the jagged appearence away...Instant blast pattern with melted edges...and it takes all of about 3 minutes to make... A multistrand wire would work well for say a cable bundle(hard to find and work with multistrand wire in less than 2 mil diameter)...but for single wires (and to keep it close to scale) plastic stretching works better...as you can vary thickness and length without the threat of metal splinters and the like...it's also much easier to work with in small spaces...and you don't have to worry about using special adhesives...regular modeling cement works just fine...no worries about stickin yer fingers together with cyanoacrylate (super glue or Zap) I have also experimented with using it for things like sails and cloaks...(I'll stick to GS for the cloak thingy, but have had some success with stretching small sheets for smaller scale warships)... __________________ I am Wolfpack, my fangs are long, my hair grey with age...I am The Great Wolf...I fight with bolter and Axe, my armies vast, my word final. A true son of Russ, my honor above all, I hunt the heretic, the xenos, and the witch and slay them where they stand! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. My sons hunt our enemies, slay them where they falter and bring their pelts to Fenris To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-29-2007	#16 (permalink)
Lord Erak Grimnar Resident Greyhunter Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wherever the wolves go Posts: 348 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 13 Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts	NO idea what you just said lol. But templar Mikeel you are going to need to tell us a bit more in what you want. As what we are telling you is for more recent. If you want this to of happened a long time ago we are going to start needing a different look at this. Just a few other things. I have been trying to think about savng private ryan and weather or not the tank tracks would of left the wheels compltly as the tank continued moving or if it would stay on the bottom lined flat out. Also one more thing which I cannot stress enough is something I like to call follow through damage (which yes is something I just made up) is remember if there is a whole on one side it would not stop there unless it was a weak explosion. It would of gone straight through and atleast scorching the exact other side. Lord Erak Grimnar The cazy beer drinkng wolf __________________ I am Lord Erak Grimnar Wolf Lord of the Night Hounds and we shall stand and fight no matter the cost. Each step shall be paid in blood non will be given for free. Here I am and here shall I die. +++ attributed to Leman Russ at the Battle of Rising Fell +++ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-29-2007	#17 (permalink)
Lord Erak Grimnar Resident Greyhunter Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wherever the wolves go Posts: 348 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 13 Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts	WHY did I not think of that yes its brilliant. If you can get a soldering iron that would work excellent but remember to work outside as Melting plastic the fumes given of arent to good for you. Also it would work for metal but for that remember to also melt around the side of the holes so it doesnt look cut out. Also remember bullet holes so a few small holes with a pin vice would suffice for that. __________________ I am Lord Erak Grimnar Wolf Lord of the Night Hounds and we shall stand and fight no matter the cost. Each step shall be paid in blood non will be given for free. Here I am and here shall I die. +++ attributed to Leman Russ at the Battle of Rising Fell +++ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-30-2007	#18 (permalink)
Templar Mikeel Major Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,779 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 217 Thanked 156 Times in 97 Posts	After getting so much advice it would shame you not to do a good job! __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Don't To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. the Killer! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-30-2007	#20 (permalink)
Lord Erak Grimnar Resident Greyhunter Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wherever the wolves go Posts: 348 Rep Power: 2 Thanks: 13 Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Nice pics need to focus the camera though. You still havn't told us exactly what you want could you please tell us so we could help. Also post pics when your done/making it __________________ I am Lord Erak Grimnar Wolf Lord of the Night Hounds and we shall stand and fight no matter the cost. Each step shall be paid in blood non will be given for free. Here I am and here shall I die. +++ attributed to Leman Russ at the Battle of Rising Fell +++ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-31-2007	#22 (permalink)
Lord Commander Erus.. Guest Posts: n/a	I take, for lascannon, a thick bladed exacto, heat it up (I have a heat resistant handle, it's called a welding glove!) and poke through the tank then twist in a circle. Repeat to a smaller knife to smooth out edges, and presto! Lascannon hole. You can also just use the edge of any knife that is heated to it and carve out a disc from it, but it looks too clean for my tastes.