FW resin

[Emperors Justice]

Hello all, have been working with FW resin for over a year now and have had zero problems removing the mold release agent until now, I just received the new death korps engine filters the other day and have tried everthing I have used in the past to remove the releasing agent ie (soft scrub-paint thinner-acetone "note did work but made the resin soft") did FW change there resin or the releasing agent, any help on a good product to remove the releasing agent would be great.

Thanks

Generally a good rinse in a strong hand cleaner and a soak in fairly hot water does it for me. I use the Lava brand hand cleaner.

[Cagarner]

I had exactly the same problem with my trygon. With so many little holes and stuff it was impossible to remove it all. What i did was to mix some paint with meths (concentrated alcahol) and gave the whole model an undercoat of it. It breaks the surface tension of the paint so it does not all condense into bubbles on the surface.

[MSguardsmen]

hmm so what is this resin you speak of and how is it different from the normal models gw produces?

[Cagarner]

Resin is more dense. The models have more pressure applied in the casting process so they can get more detail into the models. with the increased density, it means that the resin is is not as soft as plastic and will snap rather than bend. So its pretty rubbish if you want to convert anything.

Now the problem here is that due to the detail in FW models, they use loads of this releasing fluid to make the model come out of the mould easily. This oil based substance prevents stuff from sticking to it like the mould, but also paint and glue.

[MSguardsmen]

ah thx hmm hopefully they tell you about this oil when they send it to you.

[Cagarner]

This is the advice that Forgeworld gives:

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/resinmodels.htm

[Emperors Justice]

Thanks to all, I think I might have foung something that will work (Simple Green cleaner) Will try it this evening, Will post an update after the cleaning.

[Cagarner]

you may also find that really flat, smooth faces may need a light sand apering to make it slightly rough for the paint too.

Originally Posted by Cagarner

you may also find that really flat, smooth faces may need a light sand apering to make it slightly rough for the paint too.

Actually, I found that with my dread (I sanded it some) that if you leave the paint fairly thick but still thinned a bit, it works just as well.