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Old 08-30-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default Table to make? HELP!

ok so I have decided to make a table finally. What is a good size for in the house(no garage or gaming room) and what is a good material.
Also I am going to buy the Imperial city 2x's me thinks for the buildings what say the public? Anyone wanna help me out
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Old 08-30-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Hmm... while in the States, I have a 4x4 (I need a bigger one now...) piece of wood that I bought at Home Depot...

I haven't gotten the chance to sand it or anything (bought some sand at a hobby shop, but never got to do it... I'll do so when I'm in the States this Christmas/Spring...)

However, I kept this on the Veranda outside, and when I get a bigger one, I'll probably put it in the garage...

Honestly, you really need a 6' by 4' table space... when I need to play, I just use my bedroom floor... but surely you must have a basement or some spot in your house that you can turn into a gaming space?
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Old 08-30-2007   #3 (permalink)
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well, for the table itself i'd use a sheet of very thin ply wood (i think thats what it's called, shiny on one side grainy on the other) cut into 2'x2' or 2'x4' sections for easy storage and placed on the kitched table for games (remembering to lay down a cloth on the table first so it won't get damaged).

if you want to get funky with it, and have access to a good hardware store that shocks it, you can grab some high density polystyrene sheet (the pink stuff) and glue it to your sections, then model it up to make a scenic board.
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Old 08-30-2007   #4 (permalink)
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i prefer an all insulation foam (pink stuff) collapsable table. Get a couple of 2' by 4' pieces and tape them together cover the top of the foam with some contact paper (one sided sticky paper that can absorb some water). Paint the paper brown. Then all you need is some soft green flock and a watered down pva solution. you'll have yourself a 8' by 4' table that folds to no bigger than 4' by 2'. Be careful when taping and think it through you have to tape the middle seam on the bottom and the other seams on the top. They are surprisingly sturdy for what they are but they do wear after time. still i havent needed to get a new one and ive had it for almost 6 years.
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Old 08-30-2007   #5 (permalink)
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i had a big board of plywood 4x8 that i put ontop of the kitchen table but it started to warp so i had to build support legs it has worked for years now when my lady and i bought a new table i moved the whole thing to the garage
for the city table i have 1x1 blocks built and ready for random placement i cant wait to get the new apoclaypse road peices
but this has worked since RT thats a very long time ago ive had it since i was a small pup
im getting ready to try out my new tools and build a table from scratch using that board and some railroad ties
anything works its just how tem or permanant that you want it
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Old 09-09-2007   #6 (permalink)
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i prefer an all insulation foam (pink stuff) collapsable table. Get a couple of 2' by 4' pieces and tape them together cover the top of the foam with some contact paper (one sided sticky paper that can absorb some water).
Would that work with low density insulation foam, you know, the stuff they put in the boxes to keep washing machines from getting damaged.

I can get my hands on plenty of that stuff but I've only seen pink insulation foam once...and I've already turned that into asteroids for the games of BFG I ended up never having.
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Old 09-09-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Ok...this has never come up before...for obvious reasons...but here goes...before getting into TT hobbies I was a model railroader...if you want something that is both durable AND light weight for transport or storage purposes...the best stuff to use is MFD, also known as hard board...cut the board in half so you get two 4'X4' sections...ON THE SMOOTH SIDE apply a hinge, best is to use a piano hinge (one of those long strap hinges) watch how you attach the hinge as one side of it is totally flat while the other actually has the hinge rod elevated...then on the rough side...which is now your interior face when the two halves are closed up...apply a liberal amount of white glue and sand and let it dry flat and open (of course) don't dilute the glue with water...water + wood = big mess (or boat hull)...MFD is very hard to warp so no worries about the glue drawing it up or cupping the material...next is to paint the sand once it has dried and voila!...instant table...it can be placed just about anywhere and when not in use, can be folded flat and stored under a standard bed or behind a couch...the rest of it is personal choice but I customized one to have a carrying handle and a set of folding legs...it all depends on your imagination...I would suggest looking over some of the old project articles in WD and checking around to see what kind of design you are going for...is it peramanent or something that will be moved from place to place?...it's all down to your imagintaion...just be sure you make a check list so you know you have all your materials together before you get started...PLANNING IS EVERYTHING for projects like this... Good luck Brah
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Old 09-09-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spartan-11755 View Post
ok so I have decided to make a table finally. What is a good size for in the house(no garage or gaming room) and what is a good material.
Also I am going to buy the Imperial city 2x's me thinks for the buildings what say the public? Anyone wanna help me out
for games of 1000pts or less, a 4'x4' surface is sufficiant and will allow for decent tactical play... you should be able to fit between 4-6 roughly equal sized terrain pieces on it, depending on just how cluttered you like your battle field! (say perhaps; 2 large'ish buildings, 2 craters/ruins & 2 sets of barricades...)
for 1500-2000pts games you'll definately want an 8'x4' gaming area - easily achived by getting a pair of 4'x4' boards! 6'x4' is doable, but i've found that it's a wee bit harsh on hoard armies like guard and orks who will be forced to clump up quite a bit just to fit onto the table! (especially during deployment!)

even for an 8'x4' gaming table, you'll only need 1 imperial city box set... you get 12-14 buildings worth of sprues, plus some extra bitz left over for making rubble piles and such. more than enough terrain to easily create choke points and cut down most lines of sight.

cheers!
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Old 09-09-2007   #9 (permalink)
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LOL...I think I love this woman... but then again she's scares me...she knows WAY too much of this stuff...LOL...
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Old 09-09-2007   #10 (permalink)
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LOL...I think I love this woman... but then again she's scares me...she knows WAY too much of this stuff...LOL...
erm, thank-you?!!

i do have some decent training though building gaming tables... i helped build a few of the display tables for games day canada 2003 - the massive cadian gate display. i think we built 14 8'x4' tables in total... (the memory's a bit hazy, but that's what being concused 8 times does to ya!)

pink insulation foam available from places like home depot makes great terrain... it can be used for anything from rubble, to mountains, sheer cliff faces, hills, trenches...
cheep vinal blinds are a good source for creating effects like sheet metal... balsa wood is mandetory and it's dead easy to manipulate. (ie: you can just break it for that 'recently wrecked' look!)

now, once your table is built & sanded/textured, to properly seal everything before you prime it, mix some white glue & water in a mister bottle and spray the entire table... leave overnight to dry.
also, when it comes time to prime your table: PAINT OVER EVERYTHING WITH BLACK PAINT BEFORE YOU USE ANY SPRAY PRIMER!!! use a mister bottle filled with water to easily wet area of paint and force it into the really small, hard to reach areas... if you don't cover all the foam with paint first, you'll melt it with the spray and creat some rather toxic fumes!

cheers!
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Old 09-09-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Wolfie, damn you.. Quit giving me porject ideas... >.<
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Old 09-09-2007   #12 (permalink)
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LMAO...well then tell em all to quit posting things I have had way too much time on my hands to do myself...My last table was an O scale of a swiss mountain setting with not one but four seperate trains runnin through it...took me 6 mos. and had to be assembled in sections...and covered a 12X12 foot area...what a pain that was...I never wanted to look at another label that said woodland scenics again...but well they do make the BEST terrain stuff by far...
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Old 09-09-2007   #13 (permalink)
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um...this may just be the most dispicable cheat for a gaming table the world has ever seen but...the dimensions of an average wallpapering table are roughly 2'x6'-8'...what does that suggest? drapped with a length of coloured cloth and liberally hit with scatter scenery and bam, one collapsable table (well, 2 really but you know what i mean)
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Old 09-10-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Ok...this has never come up before...for obvious reasons...but here goes...before getting into TT hobbies I was a model railroader...if you want something that is both durable AND light weight for transport or storage purposes...the best stuff to use is MFD
Curse you...now I feel compelled to go looking for MFD...and the nearest hardware place is miles away...
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Old 09-10-2007   #15 (permalink)
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MDF and hardboard are a bit different, with MDF being significantly sturdier...
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Old 09-10-2007   #16 (permalink)
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MDF and hardboard are a bit different, with MDF being significantly sturdier...
And hardboard being easier to get.
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Old 09-10-2007   #17 (permalink)
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and easier to cut. MDF usually has a kind of plastic veneer over it too...
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Old 09-11-2007   #18 (permalink)
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i like 2 use sum cork sheets, i have about a dozen sheets of it that are a square foot each that i have based, now i just need 2 learn how 2 play so i can use them.
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Old 09-11-2007   #19 (permalink)
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MDF and hardboard are the same...(carpenter here guys...among other things) and it's a pain in the butt to cut no matter how you look at it...you can score the heck outa it with a knife and try snapping it but this tends to leave a leaf like effect along the cut edge...best thing to use is a panel blade in a standard circular saw...best thickness is standard 1/4 inch...(actually it's 5/32nds but what the heck...)...basically it's the same stuff that clipboards are made of, for those of you that can't picture it...Home depot sells it in 4X8, 4X4, 2X4 and 2X2 sheets...you can also cover it with 1/4" foam board it comes in sections that are folded from 4X8 to 4X2...yer lookin at droppin about $28 USD on this little project...
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Old 09-11-2007   #20 (permalink)
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not here they ain't, though hardboard here might mean a different kind of ply.
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Old 09-11-2007   #21 (permalink)
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Yeah... The two I saw were kinda different looking, but it wasn't by actual materials, one just had this plasticy sheen.
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